Anatomy of a Nuno Felted Jacket

This nuno felted collage jacket was quite the undertaking but I am pleased with the results.  It's reversible and looks great on either side. I dyed all of the wool roving and a lot of the silks used in the project.  It's an upcycled garment for sure since it includes fabric from cast away clothing, ties, a vintage obi and recycled sari ribbons.

The front and back are made in one piece from a piece of black silk chiffon 78" long by 39" wide.  I folded the fabric in half lengthwise and then again horizontally from the folded edge.  I cut the neck opening from the folded corner.  I then opened up the fabric, laid it flat and cut all the way down to make a front opening.  I then made a collage of my wool roving and fabrics.


I covered up the collage with a cloth and then wet down the whole package with cool, soapy water.


I used an electric sander to get the wool to adhere to the silk fabric.

 Once the fibers got to the pre felt stage,  I took it out side to dry.

 I then started the sleeves by cutting two pieces from the black silk chiffon each 36" wide by 18" long.  I prefelted the sleeves just like I did the body.

I put the sleeves outside to dry with the body.

Once the pieces were all dry, I sewed the sleeves to the body, wrong sides together.  I then stitched the front to the back, wrong sides together.  That's all the sewing there is on this project.

 I covered up the seams with more wool roving.  Wet it out and again used the sander.  I put plastic in the sleeves to assure that they did not felt together.

 I added a little wabi sabi by placing a piece of red velvet inside the jacket and felting it in.





And now for the fun part - the slamming session to felt and full the piece.   Hot water, soap and slam away!  I do this in my kitchen sink.

Finished nuno felted collage jacket

Back of the jacket 

Close up of the pocket and the cording

It's reversible too and looks great on either side.